SAILING BELIZE BARRIER REEF

After leaving Mexico we drove down to Belize City, from where we took a small plane (Cessna) to Placentia to meet the rest of our sailing crew. 

Since we stayed already 14 days in Yucatan we felt much better acclimatised than they did. The catamaran of 44 feet we chartered resembled more to a flat on skids than to a sailboat. A separate engine provided us with 220V current and gave us the possibility to run the air conditioning even on anchor. We did not use it. The deep freezer was more interesting because we were able to deep freeze bred for the whole voyage.

Before leaving, Luss and I checked the boat while the rest of the crew went to Placentia village to buy provisions for our ten days sailing trip.

The way out of Placentia Lagoon took us several hours and was rather exciting, since the depth sounder announced a few times just one foot of water below our keel.

When we left Placentia the weather had changed. The wind was blowing out of northerly directions at a speed of 25 knots and the sea was very choppy. After the long and tiring trip from Europe via Atlanta to Placentia the whole crew was rather suffering from these bad weather conditions. The anchorage they suggested to us in the cruising guide was very bumpy and really poorly protected. Since all of us were rather tired and we did not want to spend the night on anchor in these bad conditions, we decided to head back to Placentia Bay and look for a well protected anchorage. Unfortunately the weather forecast announced the same weather conditions for the next 2 days.

The following day we found a nice day-anchorage south of Harvest cay. Here we did some snorkelling, but the strong wind churned up the sea so that the visibility was rather bad. After the snorkeling we headed south and dropped the anchor at No Name Point close to Monkey River, a place we knew from our sailing trip 10 years ago. Generally the sailing conditions we met this time were all different from those ten years ago. The very interesting places we had seen on our first trip were closed or only allowed to be visited with a professional skipper.

After leaving No Name Point we drove north to drop the anchor at Lark Cay. Here we did some snorkelling as well; saw some nice underwater scenery but the visibility was still rather poor. Probably due to the bad weather conditions our provision of Rum came to an end prematurely. In such a case a mutiny can never be excluded.

We went on heading north to Pelican Cay. To enter the well protected “lagoon” we had to follow the way points on the plotter since the sea charts are not accurate at all. It is a funny feeling when you see that on the digital map you are sailing right over an island. With the dinghy we went to explore Cat Island, a marvellous place despite of some trash dumping.

To get out of the lagoon we did a back track and then we turned north along the Inner Chanel into the direction of the Blue Ground Range. To enter the Blue Ground Range eyeball navigation is the only possibility to go on safely, since there are numerous shoals and corral reefs. 

From here we took an easterly course and anchored near South Water Cay. On these little islands there are some resorts but no shops to buy any provisions. For the first time we found an excellent snorkeling place with crystal clear water, nice coral reefs and all the classical fish: Angelfish, Butterfly, Blue Tang, Perrot-, Trigger-, Hogfish …,  you can see while snorkelling along the reef.

The next morning we decide to move north, but to stay close to the reef. We found a place to anchor right behind the barrier reef close to Tobacco Cay. The snorkeling here was very interesting because we were able to watch different swarms of bigger fish, like Barracudas, Tarpons, and big Perrot fishes.

Because the place was really beautiful we decided to go for a second snorkeling in the afternoon. Jacqueline and I chose to swim to the reef and not to use the dinghy. On the reef we saw our first Whitetip reef shark. In the afternoon we tried to find a nice anchorage around one of the numerous islands around Tobacco Cays. Unfortunately all the places we had in mind turned out to be very shallow so that we decided to go back to the place behind the main reef where we had stayed this morning.

Tobacco Cay was the northernmost part of our trip. From here we sailed back to the Inner Chanel to spend the night on a nice anchorage near the Pelican Cays. The next day we sailed back to Placentia Cay where we had to follow the way points on our plotter to find our way back into the Placentia Lagoon and join Sunsail Marina.

MUNDO MAYA

Yucatan, Quintana Roo, Campeche, Tabasco, Chiapas

Sunday, 10th of March 2013

From Luxembourg to Frankfurt by car, find our way through that « jungle » and sleep in the “Meininger Hof”, right next to terminal 2.

Monday, 11^th of March

The flight seems to be endless. Getting off the plane with stiff legs and broken backs, we immediately stop complaining when we hear back in Europe winter doesn’t want to release its tight grip: ice, snow and cold are so bad that Frankfurt airport is closed and we were lucky to be among those who still had to chance to catch their plane…

In Cancún we arrive at Ramada Hotel after getting our car from Europcar.

We take a stroll through the streets, get some pesos from an ATM and sneak through a Mexican supermarket: the variety of Tacos that one finds here is amazing…

Passing our first “cantina” we get in, get our first “botanas”, free snacks that come with a drink. In this case it’s the Yucatan dish “ceviche” raw, marinated fish with lemon and chili. Anita and Alain love it, Gaston and I get our nourishment from the beer, the local “sol”….

Tuesday, 12^th of March

We enjoy the rich breakfast buffet then head off towards Chichén Itzá. 

We have some trouble to get our rooms in the “Villas Archeológicas, the “flexi-drive system” is quite new in Mexico and many hotels are not yet familiar with it….during the trip we will have the same trouble again and again… From the hotel we are in walking distance to the ruins. We had some rain in the morning so the heat doesn’t hit us like we expected it would. We see the main “Castillo” pyramid, pyramid of Kukulcán. This pyramid is actually the Mayan calendar formed in stone: the levels, the stairs, the walls and platforms all follow a defined pattern and counting system to become a detailed calendar at the end. We walk past the “mil columnas”, and get to the biggest (still quite intact) ballcourt of Yucatan. 

The rules to that game were simple but rather cruel: you hit a FULL rubber ball with your hip (players were wearing leather protection, but many bones were crushed…) through a stone or wooden loop/ ring and won the game. If you lost, tough luck, you were sacrified to the rain god…Think about applying these rules to our own football games, oh oh, poor losers…

We see the first small open “cenote”, a cenote sagrado, a holy one, where people were thrown into it as sacrifice.

On the whole Chichén Itzá is very crowded, very busy and very noisy. But we are so impressed by these first sights and so inexperienced that we only discover much later how much the different ruins vary…On our way back we see a mighty “Guanacaste” tree, the national tree. The seeds are very nice, we collect some as souvenirs.

Dinner at the hotel, outside on the terrace, with quite a chilly wind.

Wednesday, 13^th of March

Breakfast and off towards Valladolid. Check in at the“Ecohotel Quinta Regia” and head off to the centre of town to rent some bicycles. We do find the renting shop, very simple and tiny, and get some miserable bikes. In fact those bikes are so bad, we hurt all over after 2 minutes cycling. Disappointed we return the bikes, get the car and head of to the Cenote “Dzitnup” (cenotes=limestone sinkholes, filled with rainwater, used in Yucatan as water reservoirs, but as well for sacrifices…) and cenote “Xkekén”. 

The cavern is very nice, but it all looks like Disneyworld to us: too clean, too perfect, too many lights, nothing in its raw and original state. Luckily we are only a few people visiting the place right then, a bit later we flee from the big groups that arrive in buses. We drive back to Valladolid and walk through the town. We only get a glimpse of cenote Zaki, in the public parc, we look down at it, but cannot descend the stairs, it is closed already.

Dinner in the patio of the hotel “Mesón”, a bit windy but very nice.

We start calling at the hotels, to make sure we’ll get the rooms…

Thursday, 14^th of March

Get a “Free” and rich breakfast and drive towards Merida.

In Merida we check in at the hotel for 2 nights. This makes it possible to leave the car at the hotel and reserve a bus to Uxmál  for the other day. But first we familiarize with Merida : at the Zócola, the main plaza, we take an open air bus (tourist bus) for a ride through town. This turns out to be quite funny, we have a very nice Mayan guide who speaks a most delicious Spanish and tells many little stories and legends of Merida. Get some very rich snacks (actually a full meal…) in “Chile Café”, and walk back to the hotel. Close to plaza we get aquainted with a nice guy (professor of anthropology, as they ALL turn out to be…) who shows us the “Mundo Maya” shop, a place where we find some real nice souvenirs… In the evening there is live music and folklore dancing at the St Lucia park, but the music is so loud, it is blowing our heads off, we leave quite soon. But Merida has delicious Margaritas….

Friday, 15^th of March

Very rich breakfast and nice shopping morning in town… At midday get on the excursion to Uxmál. The bus is freezing cold; we do suffer from that ridiculous air conditioning!!! But the ruins are very pleasant: standing in front of the big pyramid and clapping your hands it sounds exactly like some bird’s chirping. (this was to honor the birds..) The ruins are in a good condition, we see many bas-reliefs with lots of details. At last we can climb some of the pyramids and see many Iguanas. On the whole we enjoy the atmosphere, very dignified and pleasant. We leave for some food and return after sunset for a light and sound show. 

The different pyramids are dipped into all sorts of lights, some giving them a grim some a magnificent aspect…Unfortunately the stories that accompany the light show are all in Spanish, but we follow some of it, certainly the part when the rain god claims his sacrifices….The show is nice but maybe a tic too long…

Back to Merida in our bus.

Saturday, 16^th of March

Off to Campeche. On the road we stop at “Bécal” THE place to get a real Panama hat. Here they are called “jipi-hats” because they use the fiber from the jipijapa tree to weave the hats. Panama hats are originally from Ecuador: the builders of the Panama Canal were wearing them and when they arrived back in the USA, everybody asked where one could get these hats. Of course the answer was: Panama, so the name of the hat. But in Bécal people work in private houses, we didn’t feel like entering and buying a hat in somebody’s living room while the TV is blaring out the latest salsa music….

Arriving in the hotel del Mar in Campeche we enjoy the pool for a while, but the water is “helada” (freezing) as the Mexican Lady dryly comments. We stroll through town, see lovely colonial houses and buildings.

At the main plaza we have dinner outside on the 1rst floor and overlook the busy night life. We enjoy the life music and dance and walk back to the hotel.

Sunday, 17^th of March

From Campeche off towards Edzná, we started wondering on the way if we wouldn’t have our fill yet of “stones”, having already seen some of the magnificent ruins and sites. But “Lonely planet” advises to go and see Edzná even if one did indeed see other ruins, this place would always be worth the while…. Ok, we listen to that advice and… get rewarded: Edzná turns out to be a full hit!!

The place unifies several architectural styles, like the early “Puuc” style and others. Nor too many tourists show up, which makes the visit all the nicer and no horrible souvenir vendors linger around and try to sell their stuff.

This time we are free to climb as many of the buildings and pyramids as we want, which makes it very pleasant for us. After this most satisfying visit we return to the hotel pool to enjoy the sun. Towards the end of the day we drive up to Campeche’s “Fort San Miguel”, but it is already closed, so we take some pictures and return to town. Campeche was surrounded by a fortified wall (to protect the town against the pirates), one can still visit the left over parts, the so called “baluartes” , the towers of the ramparts. We do visit San Carlos baluarte, stroll around, take some pictures and enjoy the sunset close to the sea.

Monday, 18^th of March

The drive to Villahermosa turns out to be quite hard: the way leads often through little towns that literally drown in heavy traffic; our general speed is rather slow due to many big lorries blocking the small streets. We get stopped many times; military controls take their time checking our papers and the car… Arriving in Villahermosa , we  find the hotel Cencali right on the spot. 

Although rather tired, we decide to stroll through the public park to give our legs a stretch…This park, “Laguna de las Ilusiones” turns out to be quite pleasant: many locals enjoy the rest of the day close to the lake, animals walk freely around (including crocodiles and Coatis etc.), many birds let you take their picture quite patiently, on the whole, not too bad…

In the evening we want to get dinner in the popular “Zona de la Luz”, but finding a kind of restaurant is not so easy here: locals don’t really dine out (dinner is a luxury for them), so we finish our desperate search and end up ( not too gracefully…) in “Burger King”.

But the Area holds some nice surprises for us: we find some very interesting buildings, water fountains, children playing in the water, music and night life just close to the Zona de la Luz, at the “Plaza de las Armas”. Our frustration from early evening is fading away and we return to the hotel, our spirits well lifted.

Tuesday, 19^th of March

Palenque is the town on the list this time. We have some trouble to find Hotel Maya right on the spot, but after several rounds we successfully manage to check in at the end. Our plan is to visit Palenque ruins the first day and Aquas Azul the second day

Palenque ruins are in a beautiful setting: the whole site is built into the jungle, some of the buildings on the top of steep hills. In spite of the sun and the heat we climb most buildings and explore as much as there is to see. At some distance we hear “Howler Monkeys” in the jungle, but as much as we scan the tree crowns, we cannot make them out. Nevertheless the monkeys, as well as the rest of the “jungle background noise”, add an exotic touch to the general atmosphere.

Back at the car park we can hear the howler monkeys again, this time very very close. We head off straight into the jungle, but only Gaston and Anita get a short glimpse of them, too short to get a picture. But the beautiful little jungle trail is a nice comfort and very enjoyable….

Back at the hotel pool we plan the next day.

Wednesday, 20^th of March

Putting up with a long drive we expect Aquas Azul to meet our expectations….and it does!!! The colour of the water and the many water cascades are just stunning!!!! There is a trail winding up into the village, all along the riverside and we start following it. After each turn we get another breathtaking view and we cannot get our fill of it. We climb the path a long way, have a refreshing dip in the turquoise coloured water and walk back.

From here we drive on a serpentine road to find “Misol-Ha”, a 35 m high waterfall, used as a film setting place ( Schwarzenegger’s “Predator”). We climb a short way to a cave and back, cooled off by the mist….

Back in Palenque town Gaston and I try to find his sunglasses back at the ruins, but return without some luck. Instead we get some lousy dinner at a place called ”Mara’s” but get a funny whisky evening to rinse the frustration off….

Thursday, 21^st  of March

Last big event takes us the long way to Chicanna. Luckily we made a reservation at the Ecovillage Hotel, it seems to be the only one in the neighborhood. The hotel is nicely set, all rooms on bamboo pillars and built as little cabins. Almost at walking distance we take a 5km drive to “Becán”, a very quiet and lonesome place in the middle of the forest. We take our time to explore the place and let the peaceful impressions sink in.

Back at the hotel we catch the very last sunbeams and enjoy a fresh beer. Dinner at the hotel.

Running short on whisky that night we have our first go on Tequila, salt and lemon. Not bad.

Friday, the 22^nd  of March

The road to Calakmul is not very easy to access: 60km dirt road straight into the jungle. Already on the bumpy road we see some animals and many birds. At the site’s entrance we expect many tourists, bunches of busses but…nobody!!! We enter Calakmul ruins over a long footpath, seeing monkeys, strange birds (one looks like a crossing between a peacock and a pheasant…) and some more monkeys, darker this time.

The many temples and pyramids are towered by 2 main buildings, which we climb in spite of the heat (+/-40 C)!!! At the top of the buildings our efforts get rewarded by a magnificent view over the jungle: we feel very spoilt, especially because of the loneliness of the place. We enjoy the ride back to the entrance of the park, always hoping to spot some more animals.

Back at the pool we enjoy the water and the fresh beer, going down relentlessly our throats.

Saturday 23^rd of March

Leaving Chicanna we drive towards Chetumal, the border town between Mexiko and Belize. We stroll through Chetumal and decide to drive towards Bacalar, to find some other Aquas azul. This turns out to be a public swimming pool, built at the Laguna.

After the very quiet Calakmul experience we don’t mind the big crowds. We relax at the water side, enjoy the sun and swim and return to Chetumal town.

After dinner we mercilessly finish off the Tequila and realize that Alain and Anita leave us the other day for their return to Europe, while Gaston, Lucien and myself head off for a sailing trip in Belize.

Sunday 24^th of March

After breakfast Alain and Anita say goodbye and return to Cancun.

We get a transfer to the border and from Belize City take a flight to Plazencia, where we meet the rest of our sailing crew and check in the very posh catamaran.

Off to the sea for 2 weeks…J